Full of pilgrims, Varanasi is the holiest city of Hindus who believe that death in this place gives the best chance for moksha or salvation. It's not easy for a Westerner to get around here, and I only had one day for that. In the evening, I attended the wonderful Hindu Ganga Aarti ceremony, the next day greeted the sunrise with a boat ride on the Ganges, and finally visited Sarnath, the site of the Buddha's first sermon.