A visit to distant Vardzia almost ended with a late flight for me. But it was worth it. The rock city, situated on the slope of Mount Eruszeli, makes an amazing impression even today. If we realize that the earthquake of the thirteenth century destroyed about two-thirds of Queen Tamara 's city, revealing its chambers and tunnels, our admiration will be even greater. Resembling the Swiss cheese Vardzia, it looks best from the valley of the Kura River, viewed in the rays of the setting sun.